NewSaint

Somewhere around 2018, a longtime friend of mine recommended that I ditch my 19-year-old, spray painted, dented up, rust bucket for a Honda Element. I basically ignored his advice for a few years as my cheap ass is way too stingy to buy a half-decent car for what those crook car dealers want and my current car works fine (most of the time). Cut to a few months ago, I’m leaving a Walmart parking lot and I see a 1st gen Element (2003-2006) sitting a few spots away from me with a For Sale sign in the window.

I walked around it for a minute, took some pictures of the sign and number, then realized there were people in the front seat (whoops). The guy was nice and showed me around the vehicle for a minute, started it up, and let me know the mileage (220,000 mi) and the price ($3,000 iirc). I thanked him and thought about it for a few days. I decided I should go for it and texted the number. Unfortunately, the car was sold the day before. Bummer.

A few more months go by and I don’t pay the Element market much mind. I happened to drive past a used car lot and out in front there sat an Element being used as a billboard to advertise some local mechanic. I jotted down the number and gave it a call later that day. The man said that the sign isn’t available for sale, but he did have a 2003 black Element for sale, 240K miles, and priced to move. He sent me some photos of it and then stopped responding to my texts. Another bummer, perhaps it sold.

Couple days later, I see a black Element parked next to a few cars on the side of a road that I pass going to work. There was no For Sale sign or contact info. so I had to do a bit of detective work. I found the house on Google Maps, found a business that was right behind it and cold called them. A man answered, I asked about the Element and he gave me the number of the man who owns it. It matched the number of the Element from the billboard! I found the car and it hasn’t been sold yet. I called the number and spoke with the owner again, let him know that I drive by the car daily, and that I’d like to see it if possible. We set a date and time, I showed up, and he gave me the grand tour.

The car was dirty, not well maintained, had some really sketchy lower kit on it (basically some U-bolts on the shocks), cheap tint, broken or missing panels, and some other cosmetic issues. I gave it a quick test drive, turned down his $2,700 cash-in-hand offer, and went home. Bummer #2.5.

In May, I won an ebay auction for a 2005 Honda Element EX with 104K miles on it in Satin Silver Metallic with a Surf Blue accented interior. No mechanical issues (more on this later), a cheap shipping quote, and a moderately high ebay seller rating made me confident that the car would be fine if not great.

A week after I sent my bank wire and signed all the paperwork, I message the seller to see when I’ll get my car. She (Annie) says that they’ve put the job up on the shipping site and that it’ll go out next week.

A week later, she says that the Element has developed a transmission issue and her mechanic is looking into it.

A week later, she says that they’ll put a replacement transmission in it free-of-charge and they’re waiting on parts

A week later, she says that the replacement transmission failed and it’s still having trouble shifting.

A total of 35 days after I paid for my car, they call me and say that they’re going to refund me the full amount and keep the car.

This seller (jetafel on ebay) is incredibly shady and was terrible about communicating the status of the car that I already paid for ($7,000 after shipping and “processing fees”). I waited for my refund check to clear and once it did, I wrote up my ordeal in a jaded (but certainly true) ebay review. This was immediately appealed and removed by them, but at least it helped tank their seller rating. Bummer #3.

While I was certainly disappointed, I was not defeated. I began crawling all of the used car sites (AutoTempest is a great tool for that) in search of another Element. I traveled about two hours south of my home to see an Element I found on Craigslist with around 150K miles on it. I found the car, shook hands with the guy selling it, and began examining the car with a fine-tooth-comb. I peered in every little nook and cranny; I fired it up and took it for a spin; and I crawled underneath the damn thing while it was parked on the street. The results weren’t good; there was lots of rust, interior was shredded by dogs, and the owner clearly had no idea about the finer details concerning its condition. I turned down his $6,200 offer and drove home. Bummer #4.

With quite a few bummers on my mind, I wearily returned to the used car websites and began the search yet again. I even briefly turned to looking for a 2nd gen CR-V as they seemed to be a little more available, but I found out they are just as rare and desirable (I just want the little card table and the spare on the back door). Everyone wants upwards of $8K for a ~20 year old car that is reliable sure, but ugly as sin and not very powerful. I suppose there are more people out there like me than I suspected.

One of the Elements I saw a few times happened to be for sale just a few minutes from my work and the dealership had reasonable hours. I sent an inquiry and was met with some pushback as they insisted that their 2005 E with 128K miles on it was absolutely worth the $10K that they were asking for it. I scheduled to see it anyway and I went there after work yesterday to check it out.

This dinky little dealer was getting to be more lipstick than pig, but I gave them a chance, gave them my ID, and they pulled the Sunset Orange Pearl beauty around for me to test drive. The car was like the dealer—a polished turd. Sure it had pretty low mileage for an E of this antiquity, but the amount of paint respray, loose body panels, and weird devices wired into the engine bay made me sure it wasn’t worth my time, let alone $10K. I puttered around in it for about ten minutes, but due to traffic conditions, I wasn’t able to take it over 50 mph. I returned to the dealer, handed them the keys, and left without even discussing a purchase.

There’s another orange E about two hours north of me that I plan to check out this weekend. But in the meantime, I thought it would be fun for me to collect the Element pictures I’ve taken in the last few months and arrange them below, enjoy!

Bonus Story: I also briefly considered buying this rusted-out 1998 Dodge Neon for $250 as a favor to the owner and a project for myself. After finding out the totality of the damage though—it was sitting for about five years and the transmission was completely seized—I decided to turn it down. I did however see it at the junkyard a few weeks later, which was interesting.

If there is anyone that has an Element that they’d like to sell, I’m a serious buyer and I have cash in hand. Please send me a message and I’d love to chat.

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2024-07-09 - original article written
2024-07-24 - revised

Over the last month or so, my poor co-workers have been my captive audience for many hours of discussion and rambling about my desire to upgrade / rebuild / replace my NAS (Network Attached Storage) solution at my house. Currently, I have three NASs: a Synology DS216j, a Synology DS418, and a homemade AMD Ryzen based system in my Fractal Design Define 7 case.

The DS216j was my first NAS purchased in the mid-late 2010s. Before this I primarily used an array of external hard drives, flash drives, and whatever else I could scrounge up to keep my stuff relatively straight and findable. With the DS216, I purchased two 4 TB Seagate IronWolf NAS hard drives for around $130 a pop. The 4 TB of usable space the RAID 1 setup provided was incredible and I quickly made use of this newly available digital real estate.

About two years after that, I got my first IT job and began to make some real money ($7.80 an hour), allowing me to buy NAS No. 2. Around 2019, my DS418 made its way into my home and into my heart. I backed up the DS216j, removed the RAID 1 array, formatted both drives, and slapped them into my new four bay enclosure. I picked up two more Seagate 4 TB drives (for around $115 each) and completed my first RAID 5 array. Now with 12 TB of usable space.

Four years later and the time has come for me to upgrade once more. I actually purchased a new set of four 8 TB IronWolf drives ($160 a piece this time) around six months ago, even going so far as to build my own NAS out of spare parts and some Unbuffered ECC DDR4 that I picked up on eBay. This system seemed to work well, but in the Define 7 case, it was just too unwieldly and cumbersome to implement in my small house.

I almost took the lazy route of cutting my losses and buying a QNAP TS-462 enclosure and calling it a day. But this unit is (at the time of writing, $470). This is too much for my tight budget so I decided to stick to the DIY path and build one on my own. This venture will require a bit of planning and some thrifty shopping, spanning a few different online retailers and continents.

Firstly, I need a motherboard. Something with an SOC and at least four SATA ports, a NIC, and preferably in an ITX form factor. I decided to go with an off-brand Intel Pentium SOC board similar to the unit pictures and that NASCompares brought to my attention in this video. The unit I went with was about $130 on AliExpress.

This MOBO has six SATA ports, four 2.5G NICs, two DDR4 SO-DIMM slots, and two M.2 NVMe slots. This should be way more I/O and connections than I need for my setup, but I’ll take it and consider it room to grow into.

Secondly, I need an enclosure. My Define 7 is a great case, sturdy, and with more 3.5” bays than I can afford to fill, but it’s very heavy and unwieldly for the small amount of components I planned to stuff into it. The perfect case for my needs would be rather small and closer to the form factor of a standard 4-Bay NAS, preferably with four or more 3.5” hot-swap bays, support for a standard Mini ITX board, and cost less than $100 (I’m not made of money).

I found the above no-name case that really fit the bill and for around $80 new on Amazon. Along with that case, I grabbed a Noctua 80mm case fan to replace the stock exhaust and four left-angle (?) SATA cables to better suit this chassis.

Thirdly, I need a Flex ATX / 1U power supply. This is turning out to be the most difficult component to obtain, at least for a reasonable price. Silverstone has a reputable unit, but I can’t justify spending another hundred dollars on yet another PSU to add to my collection. With a reputable brand out of the question, I’ll resort to a less-reputable source to obtain a PSU. With slim options, I’m leaning away from the cheap Apevia unit that is usually at the top of search results and toward some even less well-known brand named T.F. Skywindintl that I found on AliExpress, Amazon, and eBay.

The unit pictured seems to cover all my bases and (assuming it doesn’t blow up) should serve this build well. I’ll probably go with this unit on eBay for around $50, the 60-day return window offered by the seller is a plus too.

Once all these components come in, I may make a follow-up post that details any weird aspects of the build that may materialize.

Update 1: I sold both of the Synology NAS enclosures to a coworker, bought and assembled all of the parts I specified above for a custom NAS, and even purchased another NAS enclosure, the latest one being a Topton NAS N1 (shown above). This Topton NAS is fairly cheap and often sold as a white label enclosure through various different brands on sites like AliExpress (where I got mine). It has an AMD APU, 2x DDR3 SO-DIMM slots, 2x NVMe M.2 slots, and 2x 3.5” HDD bays. I replaced the generic fan with a Noctua branded one, but I had to zip-tie it on as the fan screws weren’t compatible with it.

The custom NAS has been working well, it’s pretty quiet, and was fairly easy to build. I started off the project with four 8TB Seagate Iron Wolf drives, one of which died right away and I sent it off in July to be RMA’d (six months later and I have still not received this drive back). I set this NAS aside until around October, then I spent a good chunk of change on four 16TB WD UltraStar drives. These drives in a RAIDZ2 gave me about three-dozen Terabytes of storage which should last me quite a while.

Currently, I’m using just these latest two NASs for storage; The Topton NAS N1 for media and a Jellyfin server and the custom NAS as general storage and backups.

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2022-06-08 - original article written
2023-06-08 - revised and updated
2024-01-05 - updated

JFP1 (Jumper Front Panel 1) is the name for the header that connects a motherboard to the power switch, reset switch, Power LED, and HDD LED of the chassis. The cables can be quite annoying to connect in small cases and the motherboard doesn’t always label them, so I find myself referring to a pinout diagram often, such as the example below.

I dislike the implementation of this connector and I think PC case manufacturers should start using a single connector instead of four or five separate cables.

These cables use “DuPont connectors” to interface with the chassis and motherboard and they seem to be used in a lot of electronics and hobby applications. As an experiment, I ordered a set of 2x5 DuPont connectors to see if I could accomplish this unification myself. Referencing a JFP pinout diagram, I removed the wires from the case’s connectors, attached them all to the new DuPont connector, plugged it into a motherboard, and pressed the power switch.

It worked as expected and I now plan to outfit all of my desktop cases for the next century with this single connector. No more orientation guesswork, no more looking up “PC front panel pinout” or checking manuals. Some motherboard companies have tried to mitigate this problem by using labeled riser cards to make cabling easier, but my solution will permanently fix whatever case I apply it to.

Note: Since writing this section, I have applied these new DuPont connectors to half-a-dozen cases with great success. I will do it to all future cases I own.

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2023-05-25 - original article written
2023-06-08 - revised and updated

I grew up in a rural part of the US in the early 2000s. I didn’t have much in the way of technology for most of my younger years. At the age of eight or so, my family got a Dell Inspiron 530S for my siblings and I to play on. We still didn’t have much in the way of internet however, most of the time on the computer was spent playing old PC games ( Tycoon was the family favorite). My Dad’s blackberry was used as a tethered hotspot for the family desktop for quite a while. Eventually, we upgraded to a 3G hotspot from Verizon with a 5 GB data limit each month. This was great as we could start to use the internet in a more stable and regular manner.

After using this desktop for a number of years and getting well acquainted with Windows Vista, my Dad noticed my growing computer proficiency. One day, around the age of eleven, he sat me down and said something like this.

“Son, you are more gifted with using a computer than I will ever be. I’ve worked with my hands all my life, but computers, they are the future. I want you to build your own computer, I’ll help you buy the parts, but you’ve got to do the rest. I know you don’t know much about how they work, but I want you to learn.”

So I did. I spent many months reading, asking questions, and watching videos about how computers work, what they’re made of, and why anyone would build their own computer when they could just buy one. Level1Techs, Linus Tech Tips, Bitwit, and The Tom’s Hardware forum (just to name a few) were all tremendously helpful for someone who knew next to nothing about computers at ten but was able to build their very own desktop by age twelve.

That desktop did not last forever, as no computer will, and after a number of years of service, there had been an issue with the power supply that led to the death of the machine. Looking back, it was probably easily fixable, but no matter. The desktop was given to me to take care of and I disassembled it for what parts I could take. The 120 GB hard drive (iirc), the few gigs of DDR2, CPU, and Motherboard all made their way out of the device and into my possession.

I held on to the chassis as well, but as I learned more about computers, I realized that this chassis didn’t have a removable I/O shield. In its stead was a fixed plate, for only the original motherboard. This wouldn’t do, so I cut out the plate with some tools and I was eventually able to fit an aftermarket motherboard in that case. Later, I realized what a terrible cut job I had made, so I trashed the whole thing and moved on.

After doing months of research and a lot of reading on the matter, I was confident that I could pick the correct parts to build a functional computer. My Dad and I sat down, we navigated Amazon and eBay and Newegg, eventually settling on a selection of parts. Most notably, an MSI GeForce GTS 450 graphics card. This card was terrible, even for the time. But it was inexpensive and was compatible with the parts I had. Some of the needed parts (a chassis, power supply, and disk drive) I had on hand from an old PC that my Dad’s boss donated to my project.

A few weeks later (before the time of 2-Day shipping) my parts had arrived and I got to work. With the new GPU installed, my desktop idled on my Windows Vista desktop in crisp 1680×1050. As a bit of incentive when I was planning my computer, a friend of mine gave me his old copy of Fallout 3 to play once my new PC was assembled. I quickly installed it and fired it up to test my new digs. The green haze of the Capitol Wasteland glowed brightly on my shining face.

I wholly enjoyed the experience of building, installing, and playing a game on my new-ish PC, but the machine was slow, loud, and I’m pretty sure I didn’t make sure my PSU had a high enough wattage rating to support playing a game. I knew I needed to upgrade parts eventually, but my Dad wasn’t an ATM, so every computer I’ve built or bought since has been funded solely by myself. I also knew I needed to build something better, with new and current parts, and build I did.

By high school, I had built several computers, I became the go-to “IT Guy” in my class, and I assisted a lot of teachers and students with their computer questions and problems. I even built a few desktops for my teachers, taking a small profit of course.

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2021-12-08 - original article written
2023-06-15 - revised and updated

There are generally eight different computer parts that one needs to keep in mind for solid compatibility when building a desktop from scratch. As illustrated, the chassis or case has a compatibility relationship with five of the eight components. I found this graphic in a Bitwit YouTube video » How to Choose Parts for a PC! The Ultimate Compatibility Guide!

Note: Although there are usually eight general categories of components, specialized systems may have a larger number of interacting components, requiring more detailed consideration to avoid conflicts.

In most cases and in most cases (pun intended), there will be some level of tolerances marked to ensure the builder is aware of a particular case’s limits on what can and can’t be installed into it safely. These are usually provided in the product’s description, in a user manual, or stamped into the frame of the case. This information can help determine what motherboard standoffs go where, what size fan(s) can be installed, and maximum CPU cooler height.

There are also various standardized sizes for computer cases. These range from gigantic E-ATX cases all the way down to the rarely seen, super-small Pico-ITX cases. Most PC enthusiasts seem to flock toward Full ATX, Mid ATX, or Micro ATX. These are mostly standard sizes that make up the vast majority of aftermarket computer cases.

My personal preferences are between Micro ATX and Mini ITX. As I never use more than one graphics card at a given time and store >90% of my data on my 16 TB Synology NAS, I rarely need a very roomy chassis. My current build is housed in a Fractal Design Define Mini C. This is a steel-bodied, Micro ATX case, with noise dampening foam, fan filters from all sides, and zero RGB. It’s a silent black box that sits in the corner and that’s just the way I like it.

Note: In the two years that have passed since I wrote the majority of this essay, I have changed cases a number of times: usually switching between the above Define Mini C; a Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced; and a Thermaltake “The Tower” 100.

I don’t always use the “black box in the corner” style of case. As I noted above, I own a variety of cases that stray slightly from this format and into a slightly more stylish territory (depending on your definition). I’ll also often switch between some of these cases for my

• Cooler Master Elite 120 Advanced (black)
• Fractal Design Define 7 (solid panel)
• Fractal Design Define Mini C (solid panel)
• Thermaltake The Tower 100 (black)
• Thermaltake Core V21 (plexiglass window)
• Some large E-ATX custom made aluminum case I was gifted
• Some unbranded, steel test bench

The Elite 120 fits in my backpack; the Define 7 is enormous and can fit over a dozen 3.5” HDDs; the Define Mini C is a manageable size and solid as a rock; the Tower 100 has a vertical design and is good for showing off; the Core V21 is cube shaped and I have my guest gaming PC in it currently; and the last two are mostly used for testing purposes.

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2021-12-08 - original article written
2023-06-15 - revised and updated